The Great Silk Road Adventure: Xi'an to Istanbul

Our epic trip begins this evening in Xi’an, an ancient city famed for being the starting point of the Silk Road. After an introductory briefing, we’ll venture out for our first group dinner.

This morning we’ll visit the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and explore the old town, where we will be able to see the massive city walls which at 14km in length enclose the historic centre. We’ll wander through the narrow streets of the Muslim Quarter and visit the Great Mosque, one of the oldest, largest and best-preserved Islamic mosques in China. The afternoon has been left free to allow time for personal exploration of this endlessly fascinating city.

A highlight of any visit to Xi'an is a visit to see the Terracotta Warriors – one of the greatest archaeological finds of the last century. Amazingly nothing was known of the existence of the life-size soldiers of the Terracotta Army until a peasant digging a well in 1974 stumbled upon them. The Emperor Qin Shi Huang Di spent most of his life until his death in 210BC constructing his burial place, conscripting thousands of people to build his tomb and the terracotta army that would guard him in the afterlife. The underground battle formations of life-sized pottery warriors, archers, horses and chariots have been left in situ in three large excavated pits. Pit number one contains over 6000 soldiers, each with its own individual facial features, and pit number two contains almost a thousand warriors and half the number of horses (also life-size). Following on from our visit, we'll board an early evening bullet train heading west and arriving in Lanzhou where we’ll overnight.

The capital of Gansu Province, Lanzhou was once an important link along the Northern Silk Road and a major crossing point of the Yellow River. Today it provides us with our gateway into the culturally rich landscapes of the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau. On arrival in Lanzhou we’ll continue on to Xiahe by road. Home to the famous Labrang Tibetan Buddhist Monastery, one of the largest outside Tibet, the town of Xiahe sits alongside the Daxia River amidst a rural mountainous landscape populated largely by ethnic Tibetans.

One of the six great monasteries belonging to the Geluk (Yellow Hat) School of Tibetan Buddhism, Labrang Monastery was founded in 1790 by the first Jamyang Zhaqypa, Ngawang Tsondru. Situated at the intersection of four major Asian cultures - Tibetan, Mongolian, Han Chinese and Chinese Muslim - during the 20th century, it was one of the largest Buddhist monastic universities in the world. Located at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain, the monastery boasts a collection of Buddha statues that number in their tens of thousands and is still an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists across the region, with the largest number of monks in residence outside the Tibet Autonomous Region. We’ll have the whole day to explore this fascinating place.

Making our way back to Lanzhou today, we’ll first pay a visit to the Binglingshi Caves located on the Yellow River, which have Buddhist carvings dating back over 1500 years. A scenic speedboat ride takes us to the entrance, from where we will be able to enjoy walking around this impressive site. Returning by boat to meet our bus, we’ll continue to Lanzhou to catch the overnight train through the Gansu Corridor to Jiayuguan, where we will find the first pass at the western end of the Great Wall. We’ll arrive in the city early tomorrow morning.

A strategically sited town in Gansu province, Jiayuguan once guarded the western extremity of the Great Wall. After breakfast we’ll visit the Overhanging Wall, located just a short distance to the north-west of the city’s famous fort. Located at the foot of the Black Mountains, this section of wall forms part of the defensive ramparts that once protected China’s western border. A mix of partially restored fragments and original wall, today it provides an excellent venue for a walk, offering some stunning views out across the barren emptiness of the surrounding countryside. This afternoon we’ll visit Jiayuguan Fort, one of the quintessential images of western China, built in 1372 to guard the pass between the snow-capped Qilian Shan and Hei Shan peaks. This splendid construction has been considered the last outpost of the Chinese Empire since the days of the Han Dynasty when the Great Wall reached as far as the Yumen Pass, about 90km northwest of Dunhuang, our next destination.

This morning we’ll visit the Wei-Jin tombs that date back to 220-420 AD. Inside the tombs we can see some of the original wall paintings depicting various social activities such as fishing, farming, hunting and drinking, including a very controversial depiction of ancient Chinese using knives and forks. We’ll then continue by road to Dunhuang, once a very important staging point and the last stop for the camel caravans before the gruelling journey through the desert. It was from here that the Silk Road divided into its northern and southern routes. This evening we’ll have a chance to visit the city’s excellent night market.

Dunhuang's fame is largely due to the Mogao Grottoes, which are one of the world's richest treasure troves of Buddhist manuscripts, wall paintings and statues known as the Thousand Buddha Caves. The site was first carved out of the cliffs in 366 AD, with more caves being hewn out of the rock up until the 14th century. The honeycomb of caves runs along the cliff face and contains some 2,415 coloured clay sculptures and more than 45,000 square metres of mural paintings. Many of these were paid for by pious travellers facing the perilous journey across the vast desert, or as thanks upon their safe return to Dunhuang. The colours have remained lively due to the extremely dry climate, but natural and electric light and the humidity caused by the breath of thousands of visitors is slowly fading the precious art, and some of the caves are periodically closed. About 25-40 caves are open to the public at any one time and we’ll visit some of them this morning. Although guides carry a torch, it is also a good idea to take your own. This afternoon we’ll head out to a wonderfully iconic spot – the singing sand dunes of Crescent Moon Lake. Here we can climb to the top of the enormous sand dunes for amazing views of the crystal clear spring hidden amongst the sands and enjoy the stunning views of the sunset in the desert.

Today we have a morning at leisure in Dunhuang before transferring to nearby Liuyuan to catch a bullet train all the way out of Gansu Province and into Xinjiang, once known as Chinese Turkestan. We’ll arrive this evening in Turpan, one of the lowest places on earth, where rain never falls and summers can be scorching hot.

Turpan was once an important staging post on the Silk Road and its large oasis produces the best grapes in China. During our time here we’ll visit the fascinating ghost city of Jiaohe, the ancient capital of the Jushi people, a city founded in the 2nd century BC but abandoned in 14th century AD following its destruction by the Mongols. It stands on an isolated plateau and has a haunting silhouette and atmosphere. We’ll also see the 18th century Emin Minaret built in Afghani style. This afternoon we drive on to Urumqi, Xinjiang’s bustling capital, where we’ll spend the night.

We will have time this morning to explore some of the sights of Urumqi, particularly the Xinjiang Autonomous Region Museum displaying a variety of art, crafts and relics from twelve minorities, before taking a flight over the imposing Taklamakan Desert to Kashgar. This Uighur town was one of the most strategically important destinations on the Silk Road, lying as it does at the junction of major routes over the mountains towards India, Pakistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.

Today we will have the chance to experience the famous Yakshambe Bazaar - the Sunday Market - where we’ll be able to meet Uighur, Kyrgyz and Kazakh traders at the famous animal market. Here we will spend time watching the locals trade everything from woodwork and ironware to sheep, donkeys, cattle, horses and camels before progressing onto the covered bazaar, believed to be the biggest in Central Asia. We will then take an orientation tour around the old city before some free time to spend at leisure. Dinner has also been excluded this evening, to allow for some ‘time-out’ at the end of the first stage of this trip.

An early start sees us drive out of Kashgar due west along the main artery of the Old Silk Road to the Irkishtam Pass (2950m). This is a stunning drive through an area of outstanding natural beauty, with multi-coloured sedimentary sandstone flanking our route. At the pass we will cross into Kyrgyzstan then continue on towards Sary Tash along another staggering road, this time with the high Pamirs rising to the south. We’ll stay the night with a local family in their cosy house.

Weather permitting we will be able to see stunning views of snowy Peak Lenin this morning, which at 7134m is the second highest mountain in the Pamirs. After breakfast we will drive on another extraordinary road over the 3554m Tol Dek Pass and on into the Fergana Valley to the ancient Silk Road town of Osh. Reputed to be over 3000 years old, Osh is a place steeped in history and dominated by Solomon’s Throne, which looms over the town. After climbing up to the top for great views out over the surrounding area, we plan to stay with our old friend, Imanjan, and his family at his guesthouse.

After breakfast we cross the border into Uzbekistan, where we will be met and driven onwards through the Fergana Valley. This incredibly fertile region was the breadbasket of the Central Asian USSR and is still one of the wealthiest parts of the whole region. Our first stop today will be in the town of Margilon, centre of the still thriving silk trade in the area. Here we hope to see the entire silk-weaving process from cocoon to end product, before continuing our journey to Kokand.

After a chance to visit the 19th century Palace of Khudayar Khan this morning, we will transfer to cars for our drive through the mountains to reach Tashkent. On arrival we’ll have the afternoon to explore some of Uzbekistan’s capital, taking in the Khast Imam Complex, which houses a 7th century Koran, and Independence Square.

A fast train this morning takes us to Samarkand, one of the finest cities of the Silk Road and undoubtedly a tour highlight. Once we have checked in to our hotel we will take our first look at this amazing city, with a visit to the majestic Gur-Amir Mausoleum and of course the iconic Registan.

We’ll enjoy a full day wandering through this incredible city taking in such sights as the Bibi Khanym mosque, the Shakhi Zinda ‘street of the dead’ and we’ll have the chance to return to the Registan for sunset.

After breakfast we’ll drive along the “Royal Road” to Bukhara. We aim to arrive early afternoon and check in to our guesthouse close to the famous Labi Hauz plaza and pool. This afternoon there will be free time to explore the streets and alleyways of this atmospheric ancient town before meeting up for dinner.

This morning we visit the famous Arc – or town citadel – in front of which the British officers Connelly and Stoddard lost their heads in what was one of the most infamous events of the Great Game. We’ll also visit the Kolan Minaret – or Tower of Death, from which Amir Nasirulla Khan threw his enemies – as well as the rest of the beautiful old town. The rest of the day is free to explore Bukhara at your leisure, with opportunities to wander through the bazaar and maybe do a little souvenir shopping.

An early start today takes us to the Uzbek border where we then enter the rarely visited country of Turkmenistan. After customs formalities followed by the thrill of crossing the great Oxus – Amudarya River – we will have lunch in Turkmenabat before continuing on to Mary, our base for the next two nights.

After breakfast today we will drive to Ancient Merv to see remaining traces of the glorious “Maru Shahu Jahan” – “Queen of Cities”. Due to its size and historical importance, Merv is one of the most significant sites in Turkmenistan, indeed in all of Central Asia. It consists of a series of towns each succeeded by another throughout the course of history. We’ll see the remains of Erk Kala (6th C BC) with its citadel, Gayur Kala (3rd C BC), Sultan Kala (8-11th C AD), Abdullakhan Kala and Bairamalikhan Kala (15th C AD), Mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar – the last ruler of a great Seljuk Empire (12th C AD), Great Kala and Little Kyz Kala (6-7th C AD), and the Mausoleum of Muhammed Ibn Zeid (12th C AD). Later this afternoon we’ll return to Mary to visit the highly acclaimed History Museum.

Today we’ll take a morning flight to Turkmenistan’s eclectic capital, Ashgabat. With its grand marble clad buildings stretching along wide boulevards and its many fountains, Ashgabat is a wonderfully bizarre city. The Turkmen capital began life as a frontier settlement along the Trans-Caspian railway. Following its destruction by an earthquake in 1948, the city has been completely rebuilt and became the country’s capital following its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. An intriguing mix of architectural styles, the city owes much of its unique character to the influence of its late president Saparmurat Atayevich Niyazov, known as Turkmenbashy, who during his tenure implemented an increasingly bizarre set of policies that included approving a series of controversial building projects, renaming the months after members of his own family and even changing the word for bread to that of his mother! On the topic of food, lunch today will consist of a cookery demonstration in a local restaurant before taking a tour of the city to view some of the more fascinating reminders of the city’s rich and eclectic past - including the Arch of Neutrality.

This morning we’ll visit the largest mosque in Central Asia and the mausoleum of their first President “Turkmenbashy”, before travelling out to Nissa, the 3rd Century BC capital of the Parthians. We’ll then pay a visit to a nearby stud farm to see some of the beautiful pure-bred Akhel Teke, or ‘heavenly’ horses, where we’ll enjoy lunch. Finally we end our busy day back in the city with a visit to the National Museum.

Today we will leave Turkmenistan behind us as we drive to the Iranian border and go through immigration formalities. We then continue driving on through some stunning scenery to the holy city of Mashhad - the Place of Martyrdom. It was here that the Imam Reza, a direct descendant of the Prophet Mohammed and the 8th Shia Imam, was killed on the orders of the caliph in 817. Heir to the Abbasid caliphate, his shrine went on to become a major pilgrimage site in the 16th century and today remains one of the Shia faith’s most sacred cities.

This morning we pay a visit to the impressive Imam Reza shrine, whose golden domes and towering minarets present one of the most remarkable monuments anywhere in the Muslim world. Set within the confines of a walled enclosure in the heart of the city, the site is filled with a wonderful array of mosques, courtyards and madrassahs, and whilst the shrine itself is off-limits to non-Muslims, the complex presents a fascinating place to explore. Following our visit, we will take an afternoon flight to Shiraz.

Our late morning walking tour includes a visit to the imposing Arg-e Karim Khan fortress, with its 14-metre high circular towers which dominate the city centre. There will also be time to explore the bazaar and some of Shiraz’s famous gardens and teahouses before soaking up the atmosphere at the tomb of the great Persian poet Hafez.

Today we have the whole day to enjoy what must surely be a highlight of Iran, if not of the entire Middle East: Darius the Great’s fabulous Persepolis. We will also visit the magnificent Achaemenid tombs at Nagsh e Rostam, cut high into cliffs above the ground and facing respectfully towards Persepolis. After ample time exploring the site we will make our way back to Shiraz where there’ll be time to discover this beautiful city at your leisure.

Leaving Shiraz today, we head for Pasargadae with its six-tiered tomb of Cyrus the Great, founder of the great Persian Empire. Continuing our drive northwards we’ll also stop at Izad Khast, an abandoned Sassanian town, where we’ll have time to explore the castle ruins and caravanserai. Finally we reach Isfahan, the Safavid capital, which will be our base for the next three nights.

Isfahan is one of the world’s most beguiling cities and there’ll be lots of time to discover its amazing architecture, tile-work, bazaars and the bridges that have made this city so rightly famed. During our sightseeing today we will visit the Chehel Sotun Palace and Museum, and the magnificent Nasqh Jahan Square. Here we will explore some of the world’s most beautiful mosques, the Imam (Shah) Mosque and the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque. We will also visit the magnificent six-storey Ali Qapu Palace, built in the 16th century to serve as a gateway to the royal palaces that are situated in the parklands beyond.

We’ll have another day to explore this fascinating city with time to visit the Jameh Mosque, the Armenian Quarter and the many bridges that cross the Zayandeh River. There’ll be plenty of time to explore and shop in the famous bazaar this afternoon, or just relax and people watch.

We depart Isfahan this morning to make our way to Iran’s cosmopolitan capital, Tehran. En route we’ll stop in Kashan where we visit the Royal Gardens of Fin and one of the restored merchant houses for which Kashan is famed. Continuing on to Tehran, we should arrive late this afternoon.

Tehran is one of the largest cities in Western Asia and currently home to about one-fifth of the country’s population. The Iranian capital since 1795, it is a rich blend of cultural traditions that span the country’s diverse heritage. Today we will take a tour of the city, starting with the sumptuous Golestan Palace, the oldest of Tehran’s historic monuments. A World Heritage Site, this stunning complex of palaces and manicured gardens encompasses more than two centuries of Qajar rule. Heading further north, we will visit Niavaran Historical Garden. Set within 11 hectares of land, it was said to be commissioned by a Qajar King named Fathali Shah who wanted a retreat within the city. 

Taking a morning flight today we’ll arrive in Iran’s north-west city of Tabriz, which can date its history back over 3000 years. We will spend time exploring and shopping in the UNESCO World Heritage bazaar, which stretches over 7km and is comprised of 24 separate caravanserais and 22 domed halls. Enter at your peril! Later this afternoon we’ll visit the Blue Mosque, which was constructed in 1465 and damaged in the earthquake of 1779, leaving only the entrance which is renowned for its unusual blue colour tiles. Tonight we’ll have our final dinner in Iran.

A drive to the Turkish border takes us to our final international crossing of the trip. This is a major thoroughfare so come prepared for some lengthy checks, but once through we’ll head on to the nearby small town of Dogubeyzit, situated on the plain at the foot of Mt Ararat. This afternoon we’ll visit the beautiful Ishak Pasha Palace and we hope to get fine views of Mt Ararat. Ishak Pasha, a combination of fortress, palace and pleasure-dome, dates mostly from the 17th century and is an iconic image of Eastern Turkey.

After breakfast today we head north-westwards along the eastern limits of the Anatolian Plateau, sitting approximately 2000m above sea level. This afternoon we’ll visit another one of the tour’s definite highlights - the ruined ancient city of Ani, which was the Armenian capital in the 10th century. The ruins are right on the border with modern day Armenia, sitting above the Arpa River and controlling the crossing that was at one time an essential strategic point on an off-shoot of the Silk Road. The city became fabulously wealthy before it was captured in quick succession by the Byzantine and the Turkish armies in the 11th century. This is an intriguing and memorable place and was for many years completely off-limits as it lay within the no-go area that surrounded the USSR. We then drive the short distance on to Kars, where we’ll spend the night.

This morning there will be time to wander through Kars town, giving us a chance to see its characteristic Russian architecture as well as the Armenian Church of the Twelve Apostles. This area was occupied by the Russians during the late 19th century and British forces were besieged in Kars Castle during the Crimean War. We then head west to Erzerum, Turkey’s highest city at 1920m and occupying a key strategic location. Erzerum is also home to some striking medieval Islamic buildings, many of which strongly reflect the Central Asian heritage of the Turks who constructed them, and we’ll have time to explore this afternoon.

Leaving Erzerum this morning we’ll take a scenic drive following the Euphrates River as far as the town of Kemaliye, which is known for its historic architecture including many Ottoman-era houses. Here we will spend the night in this very traditional part of the country.

Leaving Kemaliye this morning we first head south to the town of Arapgir, where we’ll visit a 700-year-old 'Cemevi' - a place of worship for Turkey's Alevi community. Our visit will give us an insight into the religious diversity in Turkey and the influence of the large, but almost invisible, Alevi faithful whose beliefs, way of life and forms of worship are very different to the orthodox Sunni majority. Finally we head north-west to the old Seljuk capital of Sivas to spend the night.

Sivas once lay along the road to Baghdad, ensuring its development as an important centre for trade and culture. Under the rule of the Seljuks it grew into a mecca for learning and scholarship, and periodically served as the capital of the Seljuk Empire, along with Konya. Many of the city’s more interesting architecture stems from this period and its historic heart is liberally sprinkled with 13th century madrassahs and minarets that are covered in beautiful turquoise and blue tiles. We’ll have the whole morning to enjoy this historical city before driving on to Avanos this afternoon - our base for the next 3 nights, in the heart of Cappadocia.

We will spend the whole day exploring some of the highlights of the region, beginning at the Göreme Open Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here we will walk through the valley and explore the painted churches of this former Byzantine monastery. This afternoon we’ll visit Kaymakli underground city, originally carved out by the Hittites around 3000BC, and then Uchisar Fortress, built by the Romans, from where we’ll be able to enjoy spectacular views of the area. We’ll also take a walk to visit the fairy chimneys known as 'Love Valley' before returning to Avanos for the evening.

A second day to enjoy this stunning area, we’ll head to the lesser known Soganli Valley today to enjoy a 2-hour walk and see several of the painted churches. We’ll also visit the unspoiled villages of Cemil, Taskinpasa and Sahin Efendi before returning to Avanos town, set on the banks of the Kizilirmak - the Red River. The red clay of the river provides the raw material for pottery, which has been produced in this area for centuries. There’ll be time to visit some of the family-run potteries for which the town is famous this afternoon.

Leaving Avanos this morning, we’ll drive across the plain of Konya stopping to visit Sultanhani, one of the largest caravanserais on the Silk Road, dating back to the 13th century. Continuing on to Konya, we will visit the Mevlana Museum, containing the tomb of the great dervish and poet Mevlana Jelaleddin Rumi. We’ll also visit the Seljuk period Karatay Madrassa before taking a late afternoon bullet train to Ankara, Turkey’s modern-day capital.

Today we’ll visit two of the country’s most essential sights. The first is the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, one of the world’s most critically acclaimed museums (and deservedly so) displaying artefacts found within the borders of Turkey between 100,000 BC and 200 AD. The second is the Mausoleum of Ataturk, Turkey’s revered “father” who almost single-handedly is responsible for Turkey’s continued existence today following its defeat in World War I. This enormous monument is dedicated to Ataturk and the architecture of the mausoleum is based upon the caravanserai staging posts of the Silk Road. We will also have a chance to see Ankara Castle, with its great views over the city.

The last stage of our epic journey takes us by high-speed train towards Turkey’s cultural capital, Istanbul, formerly Constantinople. The train terminates on the Asian side of the city, enabling us to cross the Bosphorus slowly by ferry to Europe, taking in the minarets and domes of one of the world’s greatest cities and a fitting finale to our Silk Road adventure. After a brief orientation, the rest of the afternoon will be free to take in the manifold sights of Istanbul at your leisure.

We’ll spend the morning exploring Sultanhamet, Istanbul’s historic centre. Here we’ll see the iconic Aya Sophia, which was built at the command of Emperor Justinian in the 6th century. We’ll also visit the Blue Mosque, with its magnificent series of domes and semi-domes, and with its six slender minarets sprouting from the corners of the mosque. From here we discover the ancient Hippodrome, the scene of chariot races and the centre of Byzantine civil life. In the afternoon you’ll be free to experience the extensive Grand Bazaar, one of the largest in the Middle East and a shopper's mecca since just after the mid-15th century, and the underground Roman Cisterns. Tonight we’ll meet up for our final dinner and have the chance to reminisce over the six countries and 12,000km we will have travelled over the last month and a half. It’s a true trip of a lifetime that few people, even in ancient times, will ever have undertaken in one stretch.

The tour ends after breakfast at our hotel today.