Food Lover's French Way of St James

On arrival in Le Puy en Velay, make your way to the joining hotel on the edge of the historic town centre. In the mid-afternoon (usually 3.30pm), your escort will meet with the group and provide a brief introduction to the tour before heading out for a guided walking tour of the city (at 4pm for approx 2 hrs). You have the option to ascend high up to the iron statue behind the cathedral, the Notre-Dame de France (The Virgin Mary). From here there is a wonderful view of the town and surrounding old volcanic countryside. This afternoon you can also visit the cathedral sacristy to obtain a pilgrim passport and your first stamp. Enjoy a welcome dinner this evening.

Every morning the cathedral conducts mass at 7am followed by a pilgrim blessing and the option to attend before breakfast is the first activity for today. Following breakfast, we'll gather lunch supplies before commencing our food pilgrimage from the steps of the cathedral. Following the bronze shells through the old town, outside the gates and into the countryside evokes a sense of the journey to come. We follow a well worn path passing small chapels and sweeping vistas at a relaxed pace to St-Christophe-sur Dolaison (8.5km). From here, we'll transfer to St-Privat-d'Allier for our picnic lunch. Set high above the gorges of Allier, the next stage of the walk (7km) begins from this small town with a small ascent to one of the many Hundred Years War watch towers which dot the surrounding valleys. The GR65 leads us down to the valley floor and the town of Monistrol d'Allier. Our driver will pick us up here and drive us to Rognac from where we can walk the last stage (2.8km) into Saugues. The town is rich in historic houses and dominated by La Tour des Anglais, a square tower dating back to the 13th Century. The tower takes its name from an episode during the Hundred Years War when a troupe of English soldiers besieged the town. Tonight we are accommodated in a simple hotel with a gastronomic restaurant; a favourite with pilgrims and locals alike.
Transfers: 31.5km, 65 minutes
Walk: 18.3km +325m, -475m

This morning we take time out to discover the Laguiole museum, where the famous knives are made. Later we head to the Aubrac and visit a typical farm to discover Tome and Fourme cheese and of course try the famous dish of the region, Aligot. The gothic church bell tower of Aubrac holds the great bell, the bell of the lost ones, which in the Middle Ages was rung in stormy weather to help lost pilgrims find their way. This is one of the most sparsely populated regions of France. From here we walk on the Aubrac Plateau to discover this vast volcanic granite landscape, a source of building materials for the local villages. Walking through small villages we descend to Saint-Chely d'Aubrac and on to Les Cambrassats (10.5km) before we transfer to Cinqpeyre. We continue for a further 1km on foot to Saint Come d'Olt, one of the 'plus beaux villages de France'. The village is situated in the Lot valley, between the granite dome of the Aubrac and the Causses (limestone plateau). Dinner and overnight in a convent.
Transfers: 103km, 2hrs
Walk: 11.5km -497m, +128m

This morning after breakfast we transfer to Espeyrac on the GR65 and enjoy a stage of the Way into Conques. The route we follow is largely on quiet country roads (tarmac) with some sections on paths, with the last steep descent into Conques on a stony track. The rewards are great as we make our way into one of the most beautiful towns in France, brimming over with history and with a wonderfully preserved medieval heart. We have a short guided walking tour of Conques later in the afternoon then there's free time to explore the town and Abbey or relax at one of the many cafes.
Transfer: 50km, 1hr
Walk: 12km -350m, +265m

This morning is all about the truffle, a key ingredient in the regions cuisine. Following a transfer we arrive at a truffle orchard with its oaks, hazel bushes, vines and hedges. We learn about this mysterious fungus; its history, cultivation, soils required and ageing. A truffle hound will give a demonstration of 'cavage' or truffle hunting. We have the opportunity to sample the truffle, then have lunch before we continue by vehicle to Rocamadour. For over 1000 years, the town set high on a cliff about the Alzou River, has been an important pilgrimage destination as it was built on the site of a shrine to Madonna. The healing powers associated with this have drawn pilgrims and the town flourished as a result. We spend the afternoon walking around this UNESCO World Heritage village, marvelling at the well preserved buildings and dramatic cliff top position.
Transfers: 150km, 3.5hrs

From Rocamadour we transfer to Montcléra with its 16th Century fortification, before continuing on foot to Frayssinet-le-Gelat (about 7km). The centre of the village is a crossroad dominated by an imposing Romanesque church with a memorial to the villagers who lost their lives in both World Wars. Then we transfer to Pomarède, where we will enjoy a special lunch. The history of this restaurant is well documented in Mary Moody's book ‘Lunch at Madame Murat’s’ and through her television series.
Following our plentiful lunch, we transfer to Cahors on the Lot River, with its lovely 14th Century bridge, “Pont Valentré”. Our hotel for two nights is located on the riverfront. Since Celtic times, the town has had a rich history. It is known as the centre of AOC ‘black’ wine which has been produced since the Middle Ages and exported via Bordeaux, long before that famous region developed its own viticulture industry. The choice is yours as to where to dine this evening.
Transfers: 85km, 2hrs
Walks: 9.5km

This morning we spend time at the Cahors markets and purchase our lunch supplies. Cahors' local produce market is centred around the cathedral on Wednesdays and Saturdays and is well attended by locals. Selling anything from flowers to local cheeses, freshly baked bread, colourful spices spilling out of hessian sacks and dried sausages and much more, the markets are a thoroughly enjoyable sensory experience. Armed with fresh goodies for our picnic lunch we transfer to Grotte de Pech-Merle and work up our appetite during our walk to Saint Cirque Lapopie, another of the 'plus beaux village de France'. Return to Cahors for a special wine tasting and Michelin star (red) dinner.
Transfers: 58km, 1hr 20mins
Walks: 9.7km

Leaving Cahors, we transfer to Lauzerte, to continue our walk (5.6km) along the Way of St James. You can then continue walking (6.1km) from the Chapelle d’Espis to Moissac, or transfer to Moissac. For those interested in architecture and engineering, in Moissac you can take a walk along the canal to the 'Canal Bridge' which enables the barges travelling along the Canal de Garonne to cross the Tarn River (356m below). The aqueduct is one of the largest canal bridges in France and was built in 1846. Later this afternoon, we have a guided tour of the abbey of Saint-Pierre, which with its Romanesque cloister and ornately carved Tympanum is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The abbey is home to an array of remarkable sculptures. This evening we have a typical dinner in a centrally located restaurant.
Transfer: 55km, 1hr
Walk: 5.6km + optional 6.1km

After breakfast we have a short drive to Auvillar, another picturesque village. Situated on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Garonne river, the town dates back to the Romans and is surrounded by ancient fortified walls with gateways granting access to the centre. One of the gateways passes under a 17th Century clock tower whose alternating levels of white stone with the typical red-brick of the region gives it a distinctive character. After a short guided tour of the historic heart we continue to the impressive village of Larressingle in the Gers. The fortified walls of the village date back to the 13th Century and it was the home of the bishops from Condom in the Middle Ages. Here we have our picnic lunch before walking to the Roman Pont d’Artigues, which is 1000 km from Santiago and UNESCO classified. We continue on foot to Montreal, before transferring to Eauze, an historic market town in the Midi Pyrenees. There's some free time to explore before we head to an Armagnac producing estate to visit the distillery and the ageing cellars.
May departure: Transfer to our hotel in Saint-Palais (2hrs) for dinner and overnight
Sep departure: Dinner and overnight in Eauze.
Transfers: 135km, 3hrs
Walking: 11.5km

This morning we transfer to the start of our last stage on the Camino. It's one of the most scenically beautiful sections of the route through the Basque countryside, passing through forest to reach the Pyrenean foothills and the town of St Jean Pied de Port. Many pilgrims begin their journey here, travelling on foot, by bike or with a donkey to cross northern Spain to reach Santiago de Compostela. As a result the town will be full of pilgrims. On arriving at the gate we enter the old town with time to relax and absorb the atmosphere before we take an orientation walk to view the town's attractions. Later we transfer to our hotel in the countryside, and enjoy a farewell dinner of local ingredients.
Transfers: 128km, 2hrs (shorter for the May departure)
Walking: 15.5km

After breakfast there is a transfer to Pau train station (approx 1.5hrs drive) to end the trip. Or you can depart St Jean by train (own arrangements) to Bayonne for your onward travels.