Horse riding with Mongolian nomads

After transferring to our hotel (around 60 mins) we will take a tour of the capital, & largest city in Mongolia: Ulaanbaatar (Red Warrior), situated on the Tuul River, on a windswept plateau at an altitude of 1350m. It is a city of contrasts, where modern meets tradition and bustle meets Buddhism. Included is the incredible Gandantegchinlen Buddhist Monastery (a Tibetan name that translates to 'Great Place of Complete Joy', that houses a 26.5-meter-high golden statue of Avalokiteśvara, a bodhisattva who embodies the compassion of all Buddhas. It was restored in 1990 and still functions as a monastery. The excellent museum also gives us a great overview of Mongol history and the life and conquests of Chingiis Khan. Tonight we enjoy our first group dinner and stay in a modern and comfortable 3* hotel excellently located in the heart of the city. 

In the 13th Century, Genghis Khan began the largest empire the world has ever seen; stretching from the Sea of Japan to the Danube in Hungary. He founded the cosmopolitan city of Kharkhorin (also known as Karakorum) as his capital, although it was later moved to Peking by his grandson, Kubilai Khan. This morning we aim for an early departure for the drive to the site of Kharkhorin (approx 5.5 hours). We will nip to the supermarket for snacks for the trip and stop en route for lunch and to breathe in the landscapes which will markedly define this journey from a 'usual' car trip! Once in the town, we will visit the museum to get an idea of the scale of Kharkorin, then explore the stunning temples of the 16th Century Erdene Zuu Buddhist Monastery, surrounded by monumental walls and 108 white stupas. It is probably the earliest surviving Buddhist monastery in the country, having withstood (though been significantly damaged by) the purge of monasteries in 1939 by Communist leaders. Since the 1990s the monastery has become, once again, a place of Buddhist worship. We spend time with local families today, enjoying the Mongolian hospitality, but retire to our ‘ger’ for the night.

After a drive (2 hrs) out into the wild, forested steppe, we pick up our horses from Bayasgalan camp, for the ride up to Tovkhon Monastery (2400m), a UNESCO World Heritage site situated atop a small mountain with breath-taking panoramic views of the surrounding area. This is where Zanabazar, the head and founder of Mongolian Buddhism, created his famous art works and also the national script ’soyombo’ in the 16th Century. The scenery, particularly as you enter the Orkhon Valley is breathtaking. The terrain is varied but frequently steep up through forest and so the horses will not be travelling fast today. It is a great opportunity to get to know your horse, and the riding style & terrain of the country.  Please note that females are able to visit the Monastery, but are not permitted to summit the mountain top behind it, which is an optional short, there & back extension. On return to the camp we continue our trip from here by car, to our Ger camp for the night and an excellent meal.

Whilst the guides and nomad hosts prepare our lunch and horses for our ride, we walk to where the Ulaan Tsutgalan (Red Convergence) River meets the Orkhon River in one of the biggest waterfalls in Mongolia. Once ready, we begin our journey into the beautiful Naiman Nuur mountains today, known for their series of stunning lakes. We trek along the Orkhon valley before heading up into the mountain scenery, past numerous ger camps and pasturing livestock. The route (total of about 4.5hrs riding) takes us over small rivers and through valleys before ascending a forested mountain where the river has cut a deep gash through the rock. There are opportunities for faster riding after arriving at our camp for the evening, on a separate optional route. We stay again in a ger camp. You can watch and even can help to bring in the herds of yaks and goats before nightfall. Without any light pollution, you will see the stars come out in all their brilliance in this remote region.

Khuisiin Naiman Nuur means ‘eight lakes of the navel’ and we will get the chance to see several of these on our route today. The Naiman Nuur area was created by volcanic eruptions almost 8000 years ago, creating a striking and starkly beautiful landscape dotted with now extinct volcanoes. Our morning begins with a steep ascent up and over a pass before we make our way through a valley on a gentle incline up to Huis Nuur where we will stay with families who transport their gers here on yaks. The extremes of gradient mean dismounting at times to lead the horses. The camp enjoys a wide vista of this absolutely stunning area. Today there is 4 hours riding with optional extension ride from the evenings camp to lake Khuis Nuur.

Today is our longest ride, with around 6 hours in the saddle, and is truly spectacular; a day that just keeps giving. After making our way across the valley, surrounded by many smaller lakes, we again ascend, up through a forest until we come to the biggest of the lakes; Naiman Nuur itself.With a long, forested peninsular cutting through its waters, and steep mountains rising from its banks, it feels a little like a Norwegian fjord, and it is a great treat to ride alongside its waters. We head up into the high National Park where we will meet back up with our vehicles and stay for the night. There is an opportunity for some fast riding from the col above Shirt Nuur, the largest of the 8 lakes, back to camp. Camp tonight is particularly special as it is our last night in the ‘proper wilderness’ and milk vodka and a celebratory feast are likely.

Today we drive to the desert ger camp of Khoyogor Zagal, situated on the edge of the Gobi Desert. We will enjoy a short ride on enormous woolly Bactrian camels (two humps) across the sand dunes in this beautiful, windswept spot, surrounded by mountains receding into the distance and the fearsome desert stretching for waterless mile upon mile to the south. For those preferring not to ride, there is the option of a self-guided walk into the local area of desert. The camp tonight enjoys more facilities and is busier than we have had in the nomadic camps in the wilderness. 

On our last full day, we return to the capital of Ulaanbaatar, passing through nomadic ‘towns’ off road, and stopping off to see some sacred rocks and yak statues. Depending on the time of our arrival back into UB, we can fit in some souvenir shopping (there is a fabulous Cashmere shop with incredible quality prices and quality!) before attending a cultural performance with traditional Mongolian dancing and music. On a high from the show, we end our adventure with a celebratory group dinner and exploring UB’s nightlife before returning to our hotel.

All good things must come to an end and today you enjoy your last breakfast in Mongolia before catching flights home from Ulaanbaatar. Time to plan your next escape!